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  Glazed Diamond Segments

Cupwheels that have glazed diamond segments can be renewed again when you know how

Glazing is caused by diamond grinding hard concrete with metal segment bonds that are too hard to be worn away by the sands in the hard concrete as shown in the pictures below.

Do not throw your disc away if this happens.

The first thing you need to do is change to a softer bond cupwheel on your concrete grinder which will keep cutting the floor more easily. See Grinding Hard Concrete for more information and the trick about wetting the floor.

Later, find a softer floor that you can grind for a minute or two after which the segments will quickly sharpen up again. The softer the floor, the faster this will occur, there is nothing wrong with the segments other than the temporary glazing.

When you are able recognise these signs of glazed diamond segments on the job your peers will regard you as a Master of Diamonds

The first signs of glazed segments on a concrete grinder cupwheel are:

●     The  speed of grinding (wearing away the concrete) has slowed down to a crawl

●     The cupwheel is very hot when you inspect it

●     The diamonds appear as shiny black dots in the segments (see pic below)

●     You have to apply much more effort to achieve the same grinding speed as when you began and it is still slower

●     You think you need more weight on the disc to grind faster

●     The disc becomes unstable and begins to jump around uncontrollably

 

The white spots in the above picture indicate flattened, shiny diamonds which normally appear dark to the human eye, but white to the camera. These are partly glazed diamond segments.

Why this happens

The sands from the concrete have not worn away the bond of the segments and the diamonds have become worn and are nearly flat.

This results in less cutting action which causes the operator to apply more pressure because the diamonds are no longer protruding out of the segment bond.

The glazed surface of the segment rubs on the concrete instead of cutting it away causing extreme heat which buckles the disc and makes it jump around.

There are visual signs too

- Rocket trails (see picture below)

- Shiny black spots - white ones in the picture (see picture above)

The first thing you notice is the absence of rocket trails on the parts of the segments that were cutting.

These are the tapering lines of metal behind a diamond when the segment is right for the floor hardness and the cupwheel cuts happily.

When these rocket trails are diminished or completely gone the segment is glazed.

...however, they do not have to be missing completely for you to have glazed segments for the following two reasons

   1.  If the rocket trails are only 20% as big as they normally are then the segment is partially glazed.

   2.  If the wear area of the diamond segments (the highest points) are glazed, but the lower parts of the segments have deep rocket trails

.. you must ignore the lower sections because they occurred some time earlier on softer concrete. Just look at the high spots.

Shiny dark spots are diamonds that have been worn flat.

You rarely see these shiny, dark spots on a disc that is cutting normally, you only see them on glazed segments or partially glazed segments so they are a sure sign that the matrix is too hard for the hardness of the concrete.

 

The above picture shows good rocket trails behind exposed diamonds and no shiny flat spots.

Sometimes there are clear rocket trails on the inside of the segments closest to the centre of the cupwheel with shiny flattened diamonds on the outside area of the segments which indicates that the outside area was in contact with the hard floor but the inside area was previously worn a little below that and did not quite touch the hard concrete floor and so they did not polish. This means that the floor is too hard and will continue to glaze the segments even though you can see rocket trails.

How to tell if your disc bond is too soft

The easiest way is when the disc cuts in too aggressively and deeply with only light pressure applied.

If it is difficult to control the depth of cut or if you have to move the disc too quickly then the segment bond will most likely be too soft.

This can also occur when a coarse disc is used on very soft concrete which does not necessarily reflect on the bond.

When the bond is too soft for the concrete the cupwheel will cut deeply and aggressively and the bond will wear away quickly.

Diamond cupwheel selection

Remember, you need more than one cupwheel for your concrete grinder and probably 3 or 4 to be able to grind all your jobs at the speeds you expect.

Choose Very Coarse for heavy coatings removal and for good bond key for heavy coatings you apply later.

Purchase all the bonds available in that range so you will never get stuck on a job.

Choose Coarse for fast removal of the surface, for coatings removal and general preparation without the deeper score marks of Very Coarse.

Again purchase all the bonds available.

Choose Fine for a smooth finish, for softer concrete and for removal of grinding shoulders and take all the bonds.

Choose Very Fine for dry grinding to a fine finish suitable to coat with a clear coating later for a polished concrete look, or as the final finish before using resin bond pads to polish a floor.

Very fine can also help remove grinding marks.

Choose PCD scrapers (see the next page) for rapid removal of coatings, especially when they are heavier than 500 microns thick.

Floors should be finished with a diamond grinding disc after using the PCD scraper disc to remove the coating.

Next page "Coating Removal"